Tips

Stack bales on their ends to touch the ground, preventing misshaping. Avoid piling low DM bales too high to prevent film issues. Store away from trees to avoid bird damage, and promptly remove them from the field after wrapping.

Wrap your bales within two hours to keep the nutrients intact and maintain harvest quality. Use the correct film with at least 6 layers, ensuring a 50% overlap, controlling stretch, and keeping rollers clean.

Choose bales with higher Dry Matter (DM) for better crop fermentation, shape retention, and effective storage.

Mind the size and shape of your bales! If they’re too big or misshapen, it might affect the wrapping process. Be aware of these factors during baling.

When a bale stays trapped in the chamber instead of being ejected, it can harm new bales at the beginning of the season by causing damage to the net via the rollers. Also, rusty or paint-covered surfaces on the new sides can prevent the bale from rotating smoothly for the initial few bales. We recommend disengaging the PTO (Power Take-Off) before ejecting the bale until the side walls have been polished or smoothened. That way you can roll on smoothly into a trouble-free season!

Always avoid beginning the season with rusted or dirty surfaces. Check that any areas where the Netwrap touches metal surfaces are thoroughly cleaned and free from rust to ensure optimal baling, everytime!

When storing hay and straw bales outside, don’t forget to store them in a way that both sides of the bale obtain maximum sunshine. This will help them to dry out after rain.
The North-facing side of bales stacked in an East-West alignment will never be in the sunshine, and will therefore prevent a wet bale from fully drying out. Bales stacked in a North-South alignment will allow BOTH sides of the bale to dry out. Keep it in mind!

When a bale stays trapped in the chamber instead of being ejected, it can harm new bales at the beginning of the season by causing damage to the net via the rollers. Also, rusty or paint-covered surfaces on the new sides can prevent the bale from rotating smoothly for the initial few bales. We recommend disengaging the PTO (Power Take-Off) before ejecting the bale until the side walls have been polished or smoothened. That way you can roll on smoothly into a trouble-free season!

When you’re linking the spools in a twine box, it takes a lot of time. So, it’s better to do it correctly to prevent issues! Connecting the spools creates a flatter knot that can smoothly go through the twine guides and tensioners.

Sometimes, the first 10-20 meters of twine from a spool may look uneven and kinked. This is normal and happens because of how the twine is made and wound onto the spool before packaging. When you pull the twine tight, it straightens out. As the twine moves towards the knotting part, it goes through tensioning with spring clamps in the twine box and twine brakes just before the knotter. These brakes need to be set at a specific tension. When done right, the twisted twine won’t cause any issues!

Take care with your spools before use, they are fragile. In order for the twine to run smoothly from the start to the very end, the spools must not be damaged or ‘shocked’ (dropped or crushed), as this will disrupt the careful winding pattern inside and cause the spool to fall apart internally.

When pulling twine from the spool, make sure to pull it from only one end-the right end! You can tell it’s the right end if it unwinds in a counter-clockwise direction from the inside surface. If you pull from the wrong end, you’ll end up with a big knot in the twine, causing problems in the knotter very quickly!

New bales, at the start of the season can be damaged if bale holds-up in the chamber when it should be ejected. The rollers damage the net.
Rusty or paint on new baler sides will slow the bale from turning for the first number of bales.
Solution ….. Dis-engage PTO before ejecting the bale, until side walls are shined up.